Cycling Saltwater Aquariums
 Nitrogen Cycle
After you've established the
specific gravity,
temperature,
pH and
dH, it's time to understand the
nitrogen cycle.
Waste produces ammonia which is very toxic to fish. In an
established tank, bacteria convert the ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates,
but in a new tank, beneficial bacteria haven't been established.
An ammonia spike will occur within a day or two of introducing your new fish.
This spike can actually burn the
fins off fish, ultimately killing them and causing great
disappointment. The most important way to keep ammonia levels low is to
start with only a few fish
or live rock and to add more after a few weeks.
Nitrogen Type |
Reef Tank |
Fish Only Tank |
Ammonia |
0 |
0 |
Nitrite |
0 |
0.1 |
Nitrate |
25 ppm |
30 ppm |
"Live rock" is material directly from an ocean and it has beneficial bacteria attached to it. Similarly, "live sand" from oceans can also be beneficial. The trick is to ensure the organic material hosted by rock and sand is still live by the time it is added to your tank. Avoid material with algae on it. If you have another saltwater tank, you can import material from it, including filter media. For an interesting article about a fishless cycle and ways to balance an aquarium, visit the Tropical Fish Centre for info on the fishless
cycle.
You can start by introducing mollies or other brackish livebearing
freshwater fish, but you will need to remove them once you've established more
aggressive saltwater fish in the tank.
Watch the ammonia levels carefully and don't introduce more fish until they are
under control. The level should be near 0 parts per million (ppm).
Cycling can take several weeks before the tank
stabilizes. Don't make the mistake of increasing the number of fish too
quickly and losing an entire tank of fish. It can take many months to
stabilize a tank.
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